You go mom!

I have to mention this because I am so proud of the work my mom and her friends have been doing. She has joined up with her two friends and has formed a new organization. The new non-profit corporation is called Project Tanzania Partnership Inc. They just recently received their non-profit status and are looking at getting projects off the ground.

Here is their mission statement:

The mission and purpose of Project Tanzania Partnership is guided by a desire to engage others through outreach, investment and partnership to meet critically important needs of the citizens of the United Republic of Tanzania (Tanzania) in Africa.
You will meet our Partners with shared values centering on building capacity at the village level in Tanzania within education, health care and economic development. Impact will be maximized by strong collaboration and confidence with organizations and groups “on the ground” in Tanzania; strategic partners who we will help to raise funds, improve their skills and further develop their program and services.

Take a look at their website and let’s send them our love and support:
www.projecttanzaniapartnership.org

Some Moroccan Proverbs

*Lightening warns not the tree it will strike.

*When it condems us, reason is wrong for it displeases us.

*Water has not yet flowed and already you raise the hem of your garment.

Ramadan in August

Ramadan will occur towards the end of August this year. Ramadan has not fallen in the middle of the summer since the 70’s. You may be wondering how this is possible. Well firstly Islam follows a different calendar which goes with the cycles of the moon. The lunar year is shorter than the solar year which we follow, therefore falling on a different time every year, drifting from season to season. Ramadan goes through all four season in a cycle of 32.5 years. Due to this seasonal sift of the holiday, Ramadan can take place during months of quaking cold or during months of liquefying heat, when the days are long and seem to go on forever. This summer, temperatures will reach up to 120 degrees in some parts of the desert. I try to imagine what it must be like to even restrain oneself from a glass of water but it happens and people do it. In order to understand this I had to take a deeper look into Ramadan.

Fasting is a month long commitment which seeks to cleanse mind, body, soul and community. It began in 662 AD after the Prophet Mohammad migrated from Mecca to Medina. “Ramadan is the month during which the revelations of the Qur’an began. The Prophet Muhammad was meditating in the Cave of Hira, near Mecca, when he “received” the first verse of the Qur’an. “Read in the name of Your Lord who created. He created men from a clinging form. Read, your Lord is the Most Bountiful One who taught by the pen, who taught man what he did not know.” So Ramadan marks the beginning of Islam. The word Qur’an literally means reading or recitation. And during Ramadan the whole Qur’an is read from cover to cover. This happens during extra evening prayers, which are held in congregation. The Imam, who leads the prayer, begins with the first chapter of the Qur’an on the first day of Ramadan, reciting the sacred text loudly. He moves on from chapter to chapter, passage to passage, each night, finishing the complete Qur’an on the last day of Ramadan. Not surprisingly, these prayers tend to be quite long, lasting for to two or three hours. In addition, more pious individuals may read the Qur’an silently at home.”

For followers of the faith, fasting is the sincerest form of worship by both the individual and the collective society. Fasting is regarded as one of the main pillars of Islam along with daily prayers, payment of zakat (obligatory giving to the poor, 2.5% of one’s annual income), and hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca). While fasting is obligatory for most Muslims there are exceptions to those on medication, people with prolonged afflictions, elderly, young children and breast feeding mothers. Also, if a women is menstruating or if you are traveling you are allowed to eat but are required to make up the extra week at the end.
In the Quran, the purpose of fasting is to practice self restraint. During the month of Ramadan, Muslims are asked to restrain from food, drink, sex and all disorderly, abusive and aggressive behavior. Under this category also follows no smoking or kissing. You are to continue on with your daily affairs despite the lack of such luxuries. With the lack of these elements in your daily life one is to become more focused on daily prayer, serving humanity and serving God. Ramadan is not just the month of fasting but also the month of giving. Fasting is to help people feel the pains of hunger and thirst to better understand those less fortunate and appreciate what they have. It moves people to do more for the poor and needy. The financial giving of zakat is also a way to purify ones wealth. “In addition to zakat, most Muslims also give sadqa, or charity. Ramadan is the month when most charity is given and charitable deeds are done. In Britain, Muslim charities such as Islamic Relief and Muslim Aid collect millions of pounds in zakat and sadqa during Ramadan from the Muslim community. Some of this money is distributed to the deprived segments of British Muslim communities, but most goes to development projects in the Third World. Ramadan is also the month when many young Muslims sign up to do voluntary work overseas.”

Ramadan also acts as a social lubricator. Following sunset, families and friends gather together and break the fast (think breakfast, breaking the fast). The month of fasting ends at the sight of the first new moon. Islam places a lot of emphasis on the relationship between humans and the cosmos. The idea is to feel the ripple of time and be as close with nature as possible. The end of the fast is called Eid ul-Fitr. It is a celebration of gifts, cookies and new clothes. You cater to your family and neighbors. Ramadan and fasting is about more than just restraint from bodily desire but it is about becoming closer to God and focusing on serving him and your community with concrete deeds. It is about being the best you can be and being thankful for all that you have and realizing what it feels like for many who do not have what you do.

So while this Ramadan will be particularly challenging due to climatic circumstances it will give people a chance to really show their dedication to God and humanity. I will be supporting all going through this great challenge during the coming August. I respect dearly the commitment they will be making and will pray for good health. I think that we can all learn something from such dedication and good will. Please if you know friends that will be going through this back home be a branch of support for them and it is a great opportunity to open up dialogue and learn about this important Islamic month, a truly selfless and honest month.

Communal Elections

Voting
I witnessed my first elections here in Morocco. Every 6 years communal elections take place and this year in particular was revolutionary for Morocco. While visiting a fellow Peace Corps volunteer in her site and hanging out with our Moroccan friends we were able to participate in the preparation and aftermath of the elections. This year there was a strong push to fight against the corruption and get it out of the system. It was not easy my Moroccan friends informed to me. The days leading up to the election and the day of elections a lot of money, rocks and dirty words are thrown around as people try to convince one another to vote for their representative.

Corruption has become a norm in Moroccan life and politics. Particularly during the time of elections vast amounts of the illicit giving of money, promises, power and merchandise are used to persuade voters and vote counters. Sadly, violence also occurs on some levels.

“For instance, on Sunday, June 31, in the region of El-Attaouia, municipality of Kelaat Sraghna (south of Morocco), an electoral candidate accompanied by an authority assistant (Mqadem) were distributing money to people of the province when, suddenly, the local authorities of the Royal Gendarmerie arrested them with a sum of money estimated at 300 million centimes (approximately € 265686.29) . The detainee who is named Ennakaz L'Arbi, one of the elders and a former member of the municipal council of El-Attaouia, is a candidate belonging to The Istiqlal party whose leader is Abbas El Fassi, the Moroccan prime minister.

In the town of Mediouna, near Casablanca, violent clashes have also broken out between supporters of The Istiqlal party and those of Authenticity and Modernity, which lead to burning a barn and a house in the ownership of a candidate belonging to Authenticity and Modernity party. What is more, some people have tried to burn a fuel station in the same town
To conclude, it should be noted that the number of arrests related to elections has reached 320 accused. The majority of them are accused of using money in order to win over voters, exploiting the property of the State, and causing violence.”

Although this is slightly disturbing but surprisingly accurate a change is occurring as we speak. In this small town that I witnessed the elections in I am proud to report that the party fighting against corruption won in a few parts of town. Young people and old were chanting we need the change in opposition to some scary corrupt and powerful figures. It was reminiscent of my calls for the need for change with Obama. Corruption is not an easy thing to fight but with the support of the community, joining together and recognizing the inequalities currently in the system much can be done. This is a victory for parts of the town. While this one particular man won in a certain part of town, 8 others were also elected for different sections of town. I was told that 4 out of the 9 are not corrupt, a change they say, and a change it is even if it looks insignificantly low.

Another victory in the Moroccan communal elections is that of the progress and inclusion of women in the political system. Thousands of women ran for local council this year, an unprecedented number which is trying to fill the new female quota. The government wants to boost the current 127 women in council positions to over 3,300. This will give Moroccan the largest amount of female elected officials in any Arab country. The political spectrum has normally been an all mans club and for some women, this is their first attempt to enter the patriarchal arena.

The increased encouragement for women to enter politics is made possible by the new 2004 amendments to Morocco’s Family Law by King Mohammad VI, which granted men and women equal rights in important arenas. Not only is this good for Morocco but also boosted the King’s popularity with the International community, standing as a role model on equal gender rights for Arab countries.

The spaces reserved for women across the country were overflowing with candidates as women were embracing the opportunity to make a change in their communities, in their country. The elections in the town I viewed elected two females for seats. Victorious. The only fear that I have of women being thrown into these positions is that many are not qualified or educated which could potentially be a threat to the success of other women in future elections. It is an amazing feat that they are in these positions but it is more than just filling status quo. This is a true opportunity for change and I wish all candidates, male and female the best of luck in the battle against corruption and for changes that help empower and raise their people and country.

Interweaving

Carpets, carpets, carpets. Morocco is sure not in a shortage of floor coverings. Carpets galore, colors, patterns, wool and more. There are so many carpets to choose from in this country that it is hard not to associate Morocco with their carpets. I would even go so far as to say the country has enough rugs to swathe the Great Wall of China. The market is so heavily saturated that there seems to be no room to infiltrate the booming trade unless your product goes above the norm.
In Zaouiat we also make carpets but carpets of a particular variety. Women typically recycle old sweaters and unwind them into balls of yarn and weave them into home décor. Due to this, the rugs appear aged and the colors generally would not appeal to the general public, unless of course you are a backpacking, antique collecting daughter of a hippy. Carpets are also difficult for tourists to take with them and tend to be on the more expensive side of gifts to bring home. To be prepared to enter the market with our product many improvements and financial investments would have to take part. This did not appear to me to be a good option with the competitive market in which we are a part of. What about new ideas, new projects, something that is not easily found, something we already have the knowledge and materials to create?
I held a meeting with the interested women of Zaouiat to do a rough market assessment. In Zaouiat we do not have a shortage of sheep or knowledge of natural dyes and wool spinning. We also live in a cold climate and the town nearby attracts many winter tourists who frequent the ski slopes in the vicinity. Surprisingly however, winter wear is not easily available and what is available are products from Spain or France. Almost all women know how to knit or crochet. Putting these factors together we have now decided to delve into the creation of a new line of winter wear via knitting and crochet utilizing local wool when possible. Women seem excited and we have begun knitting and crochet classes. I gave one of my knitted caps to my neighbor and within a few days she had replicated it to a T. I feel that this will be a promising activity and even if we do not make a large profit women will be able to suit up their children in homemade warmth which in the end would save money for the family. It is encouraging to see women creating already just after one workshop. Many who missed our previous meetings have even approached me in interest. As long as the ball keeps rolling and interests hold this could be a very promising activity. This summer will hopefully be spent in the stage of creativity and production which should be ready for a new line in late fall or early winter.
It has even inspired me to delve into the world of crafts farther than I previously would be comfortable to admit. Researching knitting and crochet patterns has brought to my attention just how large the underground scene of young knitters is these days. Many people it seems are still getting their knit on with group gatherings of stitching and bitching as they say. Using local products will also hopefully boost the value of our product to the market which I hope is becoming more conscious of product origin. So as you read this we are getting our knit on.

Homes

In February I moved into my first place and the freedom was immense. As much as I love my host family and still greatly do it was nice to be able to get back on a schedule that slightly resembled my previous life. I was able to eat what and when I wanted, sleep during hours that suited my internal clock, decorate a space that I could call me own and play my music to the loudest my laptop can allow.
The house was modest to say the least. I had a bedroom, small living room, kitchen and a bathroom. During the cold months in which I lived in said house I slept in the small living room next to the fireplace. I more or less took up residence in one room of the house only escaping to the kitchen for a glass of hot coco. The walls were painted a pale yellow, floors were cold cement. There was one window in the kitchen with a view of the Cedar Mountains. I became attached to having my own place but difficulties ensued due to the harshness of this past winter. I had severe water leakage from the snow and rain storms that saturated my house. Even with weeks of clear blue skies my house would not dry and everything began to mold and decompose. My new box of white envelopes was all sealed shut, my clothes became cold and moist and the pages of my books were cornering.
The entrance to my home was also not secure to my liking. The front of the house was made up of nailed scraps of wood with a door locked by a child’s pad lock. With a space open at the bottom of the door I witnessed mischievous cats escape through the front door when I would return home. One day, children, being unsupervised children, tore down a few of the front panels which I must admit was all too easy to accomplish. After this incident I decided there must be a better home for me.
My site mate was leaving soon as her term was about to expire so I took up residence with her and now am living in her house which is a step up. Her apartment is all well tiled, much grander in scale and has a double lock metal door and many windows to enjoy the morning sun. I feel secure and have more room than I know what to do with. It consists of a kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, entrance parlor and much larger living room where I even found a place to set up a desk to write this blog.
The house is also located near the river and I can enjoy the sounds of rushing water when I fall asleep and the sounds of donkeys braying when I wake. My new home is also large enough to host visitors so for those interested in a visit you are more than welcome and you will be accommodated as if you were a king in my village. I am glad I can share pictures with you but I would be thrilled to have you in my company in my first official house to myself. As the Moroccans would say MrHaba (your welcome).

One man says it well

Education beyond the books
A recent visit to Morocco brings to light a common humanity
Chase GunnellThe Daily Evergreen 02/25/2009

MARRAKESH, Morocco – No carefully crafted word or scenic photograph could do it justice. An oasis for the senses, Morocco captures your mind and tugs at your soul.
Islamic prayer calls echo from mosques five times daily, mixing with the beat of African drums. The taste of kebabs, mint tea, honey and other more alien cuisines. The fragrant smell of incense and hashish, mixed with the scent of sweat, donkeys and motorbike exhaust. The sight of orange groves and golden minarets. The feel of the scorching desert sun overhead and dusty streets underfoot.
It is a place of blinding contrast. There is abject poverty in the market alleys and Ferraris parked outside the Royal Gardens. Women are covered head-to-toe in traditional Muslim dress, walking with men wearing Gucci jeans. Whole chickens are roasted over open flames and are eaten by hand, only blocks from KFC.
As a white American in Arabic Africa, to me, Morocco felt otherworldly. A place far beyond the familiar, marching to a very different beat. But it’s a beat that is entirely captivating.
My Moroccan education began in the chaotic and crowed alleys of Djemaa el Fna, Africa’s largest marketplace. A giant square at the base of the Koutoubia Mosque, the Djemaa is an anthill of activity.
Wandering among the forceful hustling of orange juice sellers, kebab venders, snake charmers, fortune tellers and black market dealers with everything from fake designer brands to leopard skins, it’s a trial by fire. But one that leaves you wiser if you make it to the other side.
Adhan, the Islamic prayer call, rings out over the city every few hours. It’s beautiful when it’s not waking you up at 5 a.m.
Observing a man dismount his bicycle in the middle of the sidewalk, remove his shoes, kneel facing Mecca and begin rigorously giving praise to Allah, I felt fortunate to experience a window into a religion grossly misunderstood by Western society.
Saturday, a bus trip to the Ouzoud waterfalls in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains brought a glimpse of Moroccan life beyond the city walls. Under snow-capped peaks, we passed sheep herders, olive groves, and Berber villages to a place of both astounding natural beauty and wrenching poverty.
The falls themselves are one of the tallest in Africa, sending cascades of water – red with African dirt – into a gorge more than 100 meters deep. But nearby is a collection of vendors and beggars living off a trickle of tourist trade.
On our final day in Marrakesh, Tony – my traveling companion from WSU – and I choose to forgo the 80 Dirham (about $10) cab ride and walk to the airport far on the outskirts of town. Leaving Africa humbly on foot seemed fitting.
Trekking through the desert, down dusty streets and past herds of camels, I contemplated my experiences in Morocco – seeing the Arab and African world up close, living meagerly, haggling for every meal, and immersing ourselves in a place so vastly different from the one we call home. It was an unparalleled cultural education.
The U.S. is at war in two Muslim countries. Our soldiers are dying in distant lands, fighting people who seem foreign and out of touch with our Western reality. We see terrorist attacks on the nightly news and cringe at an entire culture.
Truly capturing Morocco is beyond my skill as a writer. But if there’s one thing I could impart from my journey, it’s that underneath the veil of culture, religion, and dress, the people here are as human as you or me.
Travel brings one indisputable truth: Arab, African, European, American, we are all citizens of humanity. We can recognize our differences – they make life exciting – but we must learn to celebrate this universal union before petty contrasts rip us further apart.

Pup

Dogs in morocco do not wear swanky sweaters, jeweled collars, rain boots or ribbons. Mention doggie boutique and be faced with puzzlement and possibly disgust. The life of a Moroccan dog in the country is rough and unpolished. You survive if you are fit to survive. A dog is on his own in a dog biscuit less world. Some dogs do have owners but most roam around searching for a place to rest or something to eat. However, many are sick, dirty, homeless and emaciated. Without the practice of neutering or spading puppies are born like chicken eggs.
Due to the inherited instinct of territorialism and cruel treatment by children, dogs that are owned by people can be vicious and extremely dangerous. I have frequently come across such hostility on my daily runs or bike rides and had to bend down to pick up a stone for fear of my own safety. Having been bitten before I have adapted precautionary measures. Although wildly frightened of the unleashed roaming dogs I sympathize with them. I know that they are how they are because of the conditions in which they live.
Having a weakness for canine companionship I put out a word to a few friends that if they happen to come across a puppy in distress I just might be interested. This of course was much easier than I really thought at the time and within a week a friend called me about a puppy she saved in the streets. I was to meet her in a few days to get the puppy but due to common illnesses faced by young pups she passed away within a day. A few days later another friend of mine knew of a family that just had a litter of three puppies. I went to go see them and fell for one. I had to wait a few weeks to pick him up as he was too young. A week later the puppies were all eaten by another dog, he also managed to eat a chicken. The same friend found another puppy which he took in for a night and brought it to me the next day. She was beautiful with bright green eyes. I spent the whole day playing with her and thinking of a name. Finally a puppy.
After sincere contemplation I came to name her Veda after the Bhagavad-Gita. Some of the earliest Sanskrit Hindu scriptures. It directly translates to wisdom or knowledge.
The first night however she started getting sick and wouldn’t hold down food. After not eating all the next morning or afternoon I tried to at least get her to drink water. Via syringe I gave her water and chicken broth. Every effort was met with regurgitation. For two days I tried to feed her with the syringe, enticed her with tasty chicken but no improvement. She would try to run away and find a quiet spot to hide and lay. After three days of having her she passed away in the night. I have never personally handled a dead animal but it was heartbreaking.
Life is hard here as it is and taking an animal in without the proper facilities such as a veterinarian nearby it would only be more distressing to have an animal. I have wished I could have done more for Veda but she went down her path regardless. I have called off the forces on searching for a pup. Maybe in a different environment I could try again.

I saw a bloated sheep in the river today. A large balding man on a picnic with his wife tried to push it downstream with his stick, so they could continue on. She stood watching over as the sheep was entangled between the uprooted tree.
She decided at one point to continue on with the picnic knowing that this incident should be normal, she played her part slightly disgusted.

cafe culture

I have to be careful and selective. Avoid the café’s frequented by prostitutes. Sometimes when I sit alone and a man walks in and sees me I feel these are his first thoughts. Here I am, French, a lone female traveler or just maybe the quick fix he’s willing to pay for.
Mostly men walk in and sit down with their miniature coffees, smoking their cheap cigarettes, lighters strategically placed on the table. The choice seats are by the window or curbside to carelessly gaze at the passerby’s, strangers and the estranged. Young boys, men, congregate by the door. If I enter with the opposite sex, a friend, it could possibly open the door for people to converse about me or feel more comfortable to approach me if I should return unaccompanied.
The known cigarette vendor walks around ready to respond and sedate the first nicotine itch. If you’re too broke to pay the durham and a half (.18), the toxic air will be sure to sedate you. Here smoking is more than ever a mask of idleness.

Lone men, wandering, easily aroused, standing, smoking, and stalking. Idle, dull escapism.

Types of cafes in Morocco
1. Women are not allowed and you wouldn’t want to try even if you desired to make a bold gender statement. These tend to be filled with the older crowd of gentlemen all faced towards the television screen or streets. Here you will find cigarette smoke and glares.
2. If you are women you are a prostitute so don’t be expected to be treated otherwise. Generally in larger towns or cities. I find these places have the best pastries. Young men, old men, all men are here. If you go bring a friend. You don’t need to make new friends at this café.
3. Moroccan women generallywill go accompanied by a male. I can go as I am a foreigner and not feel as if I am constantly being looked at. Establishments like these are found in larger towns and cities and cater mostly towards tourists. I am not French.